Mountaineering in Ouray, Colorado
"...Mount Sneffels could easily be Colorado's most spectacular wilderness..."
- www.coloradowilderness.com
The mountains surrounding Ouray are home to some of the finest alpine mountaineering and rock climbing routes in all of Colorado. Although better known in the climbing community for its incredible winter climbing, Ouray also possesses fantastic opportunities for summer adventure. The San Juan Mountain Range is the largest group of mountains in Colorado and remains virtually pristine when compared to other heavily used areas on the Front Range. The San Juan's rugged topography creates a landscape of jagged peaks and sweeping alpine basins that beckons to all adventurers who see them. It is within these complex mountains that early climbers first set foot.
There are two sub-ranges that hold the most opportunities for mountaineering: the Sneffels Range and the Cimarrons. The Sneffels Range lies to the north and west of Ouray with a number of different access points from Ouray. Best known to travelers as the expansive panorama that paints the skyline as they drive south from Montrose, the Sneffels Range also holds a good concentration of mountaineering objectives for all levels. Mt. Sneffels is the highest peak in the group at 14,150 feet and remains one of the most coveted summits among Rocky Mountain climbers. The standard south slope route remains the most popular means of ascent by most parties with limited mountain skills. However, classic routes on Mt. Sneffels require good judgment and experience in exposed terrain. The north face of Mt. Sneffels is a soaring alpine objective that tests even the most seasoned alpinists, while the southwest ridge is a classic moderate route that sees relatively few ascents each year. There are also many other peaks in the Sneffels Range with equally good climbing including: Teakettle, Gilpin Peak, Kismet, and Dallas Peak. While the technical difficulty can vary greatly on these different peaks, one thing remains the same for all of them. They all require good planning, navigation skills and proper equipment to safely enjoy.
The Cimarrons to the east of Ouray also hold a wealth of mountaineering to all levels of climber. Uncompahgre Peak and Wetterhorn Peak are both over 14,000 feet but differ greatly in their challenges. Uncompahgre can be surmounted with little more than a long hike, while Wetterhorn offers technical difficulties and tricky route finding on most routes. Along with these well-known peaks, there also exist a number of less famous mountains with incredible opportunities. While Horse Peak, Coxcomb Peak, and Matterhorn all have great routes to rarely-climbed summits, these lower peaks are climbed less often simply because they do not reach the magical 14,000 foot elevation, but they still offer the remote mountain experience that embodies the San Juans.
Ouray is a relatively unknown mountaineering destination with a good variety of opportunities for motivated mountaineers. The San Juans offer solitude and great routes for all experience levels. Do your homework, use the proper gear and get out there and enjoy the high back country of the "Switzerland of America", Ouray, Colorado.
San Juan Mountain Guides, LLC - Ouray
Ouray's only year round professional guide service; mountaineering, rock and ice climbing. Avalanche skills and back country Skiing. All experience levels welcome. AMGA certified guides.
info@ourayclimbing.com
(970) 325-4925
www.ourayclimbing.com
Ouray Mountain Sports - 722 Main, Ouray
Ice and rock climbing, cross-country ski and snowshoe equipment sales and rentals. Quality clothing, Gramicci, Kavu, Marmot, The North Face, Montrail, Chaco, Sportif.
leo@ouraysports.com
(970) 325-4284
www.ouraysports.com
Rigging for Rescue - Ouray
Rigging for Rescue offers technical rope work seminars renowned for their focus on applying the critical thinking and systems analysis skills required to competently incorporate rope work and rigging into effective rescue systems.
info@riggingforrescue.com
(970)-325-4474
www.riggingforrescue.com
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